Category Archives: Aden Protectorates

Reaching Mukalla

Mukalla, Yemen, 1962 It was late afternoon by the time we left Ghayl Ba Wazir, juddering west along a wash-boarded gravel road, dragging pillars and clouds of dust into the gathering twilight. Against a flaming sunset, the fortress towers of … Continue reading

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Becoming Ba Wazir of the Hadhramaut

Ghayle ba Wazir, Yemen, 1962 It took all morning to repair the vehicle – the snapped axle was the least of its problems – so I decided to walk down the camel trail to the oasis below where the tops … Continue reading

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Shabwa

Shabwa, Yemen, 1962 Beyond Ataq, bare sand plains stretched to the three black ridges of Heid el Milh – literally ‘cliffs of salt’. There had been salt mines here since time immemorial. Our next landmarks, they loomed vague and blue … Continue reading

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The boozy bureaucrats

Aden, Yemen, 1962 By our third day in Aden, we had got over the worst of our jet-lag and most of us had had two decent nights’ sleep. We were all still in the Crescent Hotel. Tomorrow we would begin … Continue reading

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East is West

Aden, Yemen, 1962 I arrived in Aden after flying the length of Saudi Arabia in a Middle East Airlines DC-4. It had taken nearly eight hours from Beirut with a brief stopover in Jeddah. I had already flown four hours … Continue reading

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